Pages:
Actions
  • #126 by drwormy on 12 Aug 2017
  • Which side?  Passenger is closer to the battery, drivers is closer to the....driver!!

    Can you access the wired plug?  Can you post some pics of how you mounted it?

    I fitted mine in the bar at the ends, just unbolt the panel and you will see plenty of room.
  • #127 by GazLaz on 12 Aug 2017
  • Which side?  Passenger is closer to the battery, drivers is closer to the....driver!!

    Can you access the wired plug?  Can you post some pics of how you mounted it?
    It is on the passenger side with the wired controller plugged in and just behind the battery.  I also put a wireless kit in the solenoid box. To mount it  just wedged it in and used long cable ties and some hdpe foam.  I intended to work a better way out but it has been fine.
    I extended the cables too.
    Sorry i didnt take photos.
  • #128 by dad on 13 Aug 2017
  • A minor point re TJM T13 Bars. If you have a look from the 'right front wheel level' towards the Bar, you'll notice a considerable gap with a good view of the winch. Particularly the Terminals.
    I attached approx. 160mm X 50mm X 6mm rubber slips covering left and right gaps. The right side critical.

    Every clay trip since I've washed off up to 20mm of clay off these protection strips which otherwise would have went directly into the winch cavity. At Fraser, as another example, the protection strips worked preventing the ingress of salt and sand.


    Cheers

    dad
  • #129 by drwormy on 01 Oct 2017
  • Just a quick FYI.

    I took my T13 bar off yesterday to fit a winch.... getting the lower guard off was a PITA.... two bolts had seized due to rust and the nutserts were spinning.  Was a right pain to get off.

    Looks like the nutserts are zinc coated steel.  Was only the ones located right in the mount point (where i guess moisture would harder to get away).

    Im going to replace with stainless nuts where i can, and then stainless nutserts. 

    I can imagine this could be a bit of an issue if stuck in bush and needing to do something to the winch etc.  I was going to mount the control box in the corner well.... now i think itll go on top.

  • #130 by Andy D on 01 Oct 2017
  • The nutserts are probably my most least favourite part of the TJM bar, aside from having to take the whole bar off to get the winch out.
    Surely welding some nuts on before powder coating would be a better option in the long term. Probable costs a few extra bucks in the manufacturing process.
  • #131 by BirdmanFJ on 05 Oct 2017
  • Yes, I now have a couple of bolts that I can't undo due to spinning nutserts   :boohoo:
  • #132 by dad on 08 Oct 2017
  • Don't forget to cut up and attach some 8mm rubber 70 X 200 strips to prevent salt, sand and mud driven into your winch cavity via the gaps which are easy to see through the wheel arch - no cooling issues

    Cheers

    dad
  • #133 by drwormy on 08 Oct 2017
  • Got any photos of your handy work Dad?

    I am just at the stage of thinking about this

    Don't forget to cut up and attach some 8mm rubber 70 X 200 strips to prevent salt, sand and mud driven into your winch cavity via the gaps which are easy to see through the wheel arch - no cooling issues

    Cheers

    dad
  • #134 by Andy D on 09 Oct 2017
  • I was thinking of drilling out those nutserts and replacing them with some 'bolt clips' like these
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pack-of-25-Stainless-Steel-Bolts-Spring-U-Nuts-Clips-m6-Fairing-Panel-Bolt-Clip-/130961705121
    It does mean that there is a small gap between the panels but a thin strip of rubber would probably fill that.
    I'd just have to find clips that fit well.
  • #135 by dad on 09 Oct 2017
  • Got any photos of your handy work Dad?

    I am just at the stage of thinking about this

    Nothing complex Dr just a lump of rubber that covers the gap.

    Cheers

    dad
  • #136 by drwormy on 09 Oct 2017
  • I'm not sure which gap you refer to.
     At the bottom where the braces are I can imagine...but wheel well??

     
    Nothing complex Dr just a lump of rubber that covers the gap.

    Cheers

    dad
  • #137 by dad on 10 Oct 2017
  • I'm not sure which gap you refer to.
     At the bottom where the braces are I can imagine...but wheel well??

    I assume you have a T13, and a winch, if so, stick your head in front of your right front tyre.
    You will see the winch terminals via a gap which will fill with everything you don't want in there if not covered.

    Cheers

    dad
  • #138 by Off Grid on 10 Oct 2017
  • High tensile steel bull-bar and zinc plated flimsy steel "nutserts" relying on interference fit friction? - A chemical recipe for corrosion and eventual failure. Never mind vibration!
    TJM: What were you thinking?
    Nothing exceeds like excess - 316 Stainless harware, Nylocks and Loctite.
    Problem solved.
  • #139 by GazLaz on 10 Oct 2017
  • If you use 316 you will then get corrosion at the bolt hole instead.
    Hi tensile steel would be the way to go but only if the section is exposed to stress otherwise it is overkill.
  • #140 by Andy D on 11 Oct 2017
  • Problem is getting to the nuts on the inside.
    It's virtually inaccessible with the plates on and guard liners attached.
  • #141 by drwormy on 28 Oct 2017
  • Update on the seized nutserts - I had to drill out 4 nutserts, the far 2 M8's either side.  These are tapped into the bar-chassis mount.

    I got some M8 stainless nutserts, and destroyed several bolts installing them....didnt check the tensile rating closely enough.  This was hard work, so my work around for the other M8 bolts was a stud, loctited into the nutsert like so:



    https://www.dropbox.com/s/mk8ondpl3v0ec5c/IMG_20171028_193150407.jpg?dl=0
  • #142 by MACGYVER on 31 Oct 2017


  • I installed my T13 a few weeks ago, it took AGES. I did find this thread useful so thanks everyone, I’ve been meaning to put this into a build thread but for now here's my 2c..

    This is one of those jobs that you really only know what you should have done differently when you’ve finished it.

    I reckon it took me easily 20hrs. To be fair I had to stop and start several times over a few days and I’m meticulous/borderline OCD haha.

    I also installed a Runva winch and a lot of time went into customising the winch install. I didn’t want to install the control box on top of the bar and I wanted the wireless control to remain functioning and since its not waterproof but the solenoid is, I removed the solenoid from the control box enclosure and spent a while test fitting the solenoid and cable runs, working out the external wired remote new mount position. Relocating the not-so-waterproof wireless receiver to inside the cab and integrated an in cab rocker switch for the winch controls.

    All the customisation aside, if you went by the book it should take you 10-12hrs

    The gap between the bar and body is huge, a lot of what I mention below is to help minimise this as I think its an eyesore. Not really noticeable on a black FJ but on colour models you do see the body colour through the gap. Some solutions include painting the visible body colour sections with black paint or fitting a rubber moulding. I am yet to do either but will probably paint black as I have a cement Grey FJ and its noticeable enough to annoy me.

    Screenshot 2017-10-31 22.26.13.jpgTJM T13 bar install

    The instructions suck so read them a few times and really understand them before you start.

    Pre-sort all the fixtures! There will be a fair amount of left over bits so don't stress

    Underline sections where the instructions tell you to leave bolts loose, PARTICULARLY part 19, this is to help you move the bar mounts upwards and rearwards to help hide the gap, before securing the bolts

    If you are installing Recovery points at the same time, this occurs at parts 18-19 so swap out the M12 Stainless TJM bolts with the longer ones supplied with the Recovery point kit, these are probably High Tensile rated as well.

    The pictures are terrible, in part 62 the image is actually the inside view of the LHS not RHS as labelled.

    Screenshot 2017-10-31 22.45.41.jpgTJM T13 bar install

    This really confused me at first, In part 19 the fixture quantities in (brackets) e.g. M12x1.25x35mm (2) refers to only one side of the chassis brace, but for the rest of the instructions the quantities refer to the entire bar or all pieces being installed.

    Ignore instructions parts 10-12 these mounts support the headlights/indicators and are helpful in visually closing the gap between bar and body. In fact you could probably ignore part 8 as well if you want to use the plastic bit to help hide the gap between bar and body at the side. (I removed mine while following instructions and need to paint in this gap see pic 1)

    Screenshot 2017-10-31 22.49.09.jpgTJM T13 bar install

    Screenshot 2017-10-31 22.35.04.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    headlight support helps fill the gap

    You DON'T need to cut the 40mm off the above mentioned bumper support mounts in part 33. In fact I cut mine off and when I test fit the bar I HATED the huge gap behind the bar so much I managed to re-attach the parts I cut to help fill the gap between bar and body under the headlights. As I mentioned above, removing this mount as the instructions suggest leaves not much support for the entire headlight and indicator assembly which I wasn't happy about either so I'm glad I went to the trouble of putting it all back on.


    Screenshot 2017-10-31 22.35.21.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    Where I cut the 40mm off and then decided to replace the headlight mount support


    Screenshot 2017-10-31 23.07.12.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    using the off cut to re-attach the mount


    Screenshot 2017-10-31 23.09.30.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    re-attached

    The foglight mount system is terribly designed. one of my plastic mounts broke, tried gluing but no success, as soon as there is pressure from tightening the mounting screws it broke again. you need to test fit the lights, then bend the metal mounts attached to the bar to adjust positioning which is hard to do, then to tighten the m6 bolts/nuts you need a small/short low profile 10mm tool to get between the mount and the bar from the inside, I ended up bending an old 10mm spanner in half, into a L shape to make it work.

    Get a friend to help lifting the bar on ESPECIALLY if you add a 30kg winch. I used my trolley jack and some pine to take the weight and ensure I was attaching the bar on the mounts at the highest possible position to minimise the bar to body gap.


    Screenshot 2017-10-31 22.29.45.jpgTJM T13 bar install

    Only drill the hole in part 65 when you are 100% happy with the fitment and positioning of the bar

    I ignored part 50 about drilling into the wheel arch liner, I’ll revisit this when I have a full solution for the below adding rubber/ wheel arch liner to fill the gaps..

    as with part 71-72 using the template to cut the wheel arch liners, I marked up the templates but ended up waiting until finishing the entire install to see how the liners would fit best and custom cutting so to make a tight fit and use as much of the existing liner to try to keep crud out of the side wings. Although as some have mentioned here (DAD I think?) there is still a massive gap that really should be covered with a rigid mudguard rubber or similar otherwise you’ll be cleaning mud and clay out of the inside of the bar for days after heading out bush.


    Screenshot 2017-10-31 22.42.24.jpgTJM T13 bar install

    When putting the under wing guards on, starting with the M8 do them up just a few turns, until you have all bolts in their positions. Otherwise you will probably struggle to get them all to line up.

    apart from all that its a piece of cake. Heavy cake

    cheers!
  • #143 by Onthemove on 05 Nov 2017
  • If you flex up the front you will see you need a decent gap to the body. Agreed doesn’t look the best but if you close the gap you will rub
  • #144 by xJBallsx on 05 Nov 2017
  • This is why you need the large gaps.... Ladder frame chassis has some flex





  • #145 by MACGYVER on 06 Nov 2017
  • Thats a good point about chassis flex guys, I hadn't had a chance to test out the clearance on the headlight support mounts so I did that today.

    Trying to imitate the flex in your pics xJBallsx I managed to get the bar to just touch the edge of the mount by using my jack on the chassis rail just in front of the rear wheel on the opposite side.

    No problem! I made some adjustments to the body mounts, removing the piece I used to 're-attach' them, drilling a new hole and effectively pulling the mount away from the bar. There were a few other tweaks but now the bar has complete clearance.


    Screenshot 2017-11-05 23.57.08.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    Before, not enough clearance

    Screenshot 2017-11-05 23.53.17.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    After, lots of clearance

    I also took the opportunity to paint the body colour area on the side that was showing through the gap

    Screenshot 2017-11-06 00.28.48.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    Before, body colour shows through gap

    Screenshot 2017-11-06 00.34.13.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    After painting black


  • #146 by xJBallsx on 06 Nov 2017
  • Nice, I should've painted mine black at the time. When i have it off to service the winch next I'll take care of it. I painted the rear when i fitted the ARB Bar, much tidier.
  • #147 by GazLaz on 06 Nov 2017
  • Black hd foam is a good gap filler and will just compress during flex.
  • #148 by MACGYVER on 06 Nov 2017
  • I was thinking about that as an option too, came across this stuff, could be a good solution.. I may run a long strip from one wheel arch liner to the other filling the gap. I'll see how I go next time I get a chance

    strip-rubber1_1_2.jpgTJM T13 bar install
    https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/natural-strip-insertion-rubber-6mm-thick
  • #149 by Miles fj on 07 Nov 2017
  • In a few week you will get used to see that gap that you might not notice it anymore.....
  • #150 by BirdmanFJ on 07 Nov 2017
  • TJM left mine on when they installed the bar, and I have never noticed any rubbing. I have a white FJ and those bits are black,  I doubt TJM painted them.
Pages:
Actions